K2 Trek LogPage 2 of 3: Up the BaltoroAll the photos were taken from the video. Click them for a full size picture. |
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22nd August 2001:Todays walk took us onto the Baltoro Glacier itself and across to the camp on the southern side called Khuburtse. Sadly Nigel was to leave us today as yesterdays activity seemed to have a bad affect on his pulse. I was sad to see him go as he was a good tent mate and good to walk with, although he was much faster than me. At least I now had a tent to myself.The walk took us to the snout of the glacier then we had to climb it. All around looked like a pile of rubble with ice showing through in places . It was quite steep at first and following the faint trail was difficult. Soon a light rain started to fall and up went the umbrellas and everyone sang “Singing in the Rain? whilst I videoed them as the umbrellas spun. We had lunch at Lilligo in the faltering rain and walked on to the camp in the afternoon. From Khuburtse there were incredible views of the mountain groups lining the southern edge of the Baltoro, the Cathedral group, Trango Towers and Lobsang Spire.It was a pleasant camp site with melt water flowing along a small stream from the ice above. There were areas where you had to watch your footing. The danger was not falling but treading in someones turd. Chris was feeling unwell and not enjoying himself and seemed determined to go back tomorrow. |
Baltoro Snout
Lilligo |
23rd August 2001:Chris headed off down at this point. It was a fairly easy mornings walk to Urdarkus in poor weather. The cloud was clinging around the peaks and the lighting was rather sombre. It was still an interesting walk which crossed two small icy side glaciers. We were at the camp site for lunch but it was a wet afternoon and I spent most of it in the tent. When it stopped I ventured out for a bit of a walk up the hill behind the camp. I was greeted with a “ho ho ho? from the porter who had become known to us as the flower man as he always had a sprig of native shrubbery growing about his clothing. He led me up the hill to a large boulder which he scampered up despite it still being wet and slippery. Communication was by means of grunts and hand signals but I gathered he wanted me to go up there as well. I got up to the lowest bit that would satisfy him that I was up . There was a good view of the Baltoro in the swirling mists and Trango Towers loomed as sinister shadows on the other side. I slithered off and waited for “Flower Man? to come down. As the rock was slippery he decided to take off his shoes, which were a sort of wellington boot, and hurl them down to me. Sadly he was not as good at hurling as he was at scampering, and while one of them arrived safely the other disappeared into a chasm under the boulder. |
Side Glacier
Urdarkus |
| We both peered into the depths but it was not visible and there was no way down. Jim, Judy and Jo arrived about this time but there was nothing they could do. Losing a shoe here is a serious matter, although flower man was still chuckling he looked a bit concerned. We said we would have a word with Rhamat to get him another shoe and went back to the camp. | |
24th August 2001:We awoke to a dank morning with low cloud and light rain. This delayed our start as everyone was hoping the rain would clear so we didn't get going till about 0900. We left the banks of the glacier and headed out across the rubble and ice, passed small icy canyons with creeks of ice melt flowing through them. I found the going quite tough as I had a cold developing and was starting to feel the effects of altitude. The low cloud obscured all the peaks but at least the rain had eased. By lunch time I felt on my last legs but the food got me going again. The lunch spot was uncomfortable on the rocky glacier but it was a spectacular site and the cloud was lifting a bit and the mist clearing. The afternoon was a steady plod along the middle of the Glacier to Goro 2 where we made our camp at 4500m. The cloud started to break and we had a view of the summit of Masherbrum but looking up toward Concordia there were just peaks ascending into the cloud. |
Ice Canyon
Masherbrum |
25th August 2001:It was only a half days walk to the camp at Concordia but I was feeling too stuffed to enjoy it. The altitude was making it's effect felt and on top of the cold I found it a real slog. I just wanted to get to the camp and rest.As we made our way up the Glacier, Broad Peak came into view and soon we were staring at K2 and Gasherbrum 4 was right in front of us. The weather was fine and it was a splendid place to be but I still felt that I would rather be at home. Once in camp I felt better mentally but the cold and cough was making it hard to move about. Tomorrow was to be a rest day which I badly needed. |
Gasherbrum 4 |
26th August 2001:A rest day at Concordia. Weather was fine with brilliant views of the big peaks all around. My cold was no better and I felt bad but at least there was no walking to do. Others played high altitude cricket. Seeing I can't play even at low altitudes so I just watched and filmed. Tomorrow is proposed to set off for K2 base camp. I don't feel like I will be able to make it.27th August 2001:Not a good day for me. I made an attempt to leave with the group for K2 base camp but the first uphill I came to had me puffing, wheezing and coughing and making very slow progress. |
The Cricket Pitch |
Pip said I should go back to camp before they took all the tents down. I made it back and collapsed in my tent with light snow squalls blowing around. I just wanted to rest and found it an effort to eat the food the cook enthusiastically served me.I spent most of the day in my sleeping bag getting up occasionally to admire the surroundings. It was a lonely day but I was too sick to worry about that and enjoyed the solitude.
28th August 2001:I had a solid but cool nights sleep and woke feeling a bit better. The weather had cleared and there were magnificent views all around. I spent the day resting, taking photos and video, reading and listening to music. There was a good rock above my tent to sit an and admire my position. |
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| Tomorrow was scheduled to head for the Gondogoro La but it seemed unlikely I would be fit enough for that.
Eventually some of my fellow trekkers began to return from their trip toward K2 with the news that Jim was suffering with a bad case of altitude sickness. He was eventually guided in looking weak, wobbly and pale. It looked like there would be two of us heading back down the Baltoro. It turned out he was suffering from a cerebral edema and needed to get lower and I was in no state to go higher, although I still harbored hopes that the morning would find me fit and well. |
K2 |
