15th August 2001:

This was the second day we had trundled along to Islamabad Airport to catch the plane to Skardu only to be turned away because Nanga Parbat was in cloud and the pilots refused to fly. Yesterday we had even got our boarding passes and moved through the barrier only to be turned back.

We could not afford to wait another day so it was off in the bus along the Karakorum Highway to Chilias then the next day to Skardu. It was a long haul but a better way to see the country. Mid afternoon we met the mighty Indus. A huge mass of dark gray swirling water. Then it was just bumping along till we reached the hotel at Chilias at midnight. It was a tiring journey, the suspension on the bus was very hard and we felt every bump. Dave, one of the trekkers, was feeling crook and we had to stop for him to throw up. It must have been worse for him.

16th August 2001:

We were up at 0545 for another bumpy day in the bus. It was through impressive country along the Indus. It was a very dry and parched landscape.

Indus River

Our Bus

We arrived in Skardu at about 1600 and went to the K2 hotel. It is in a lovely spot with gardens and lawns lookingout over the river and surrounding mountains. I was able to phone home from here and we all tried on the crampons we would need for the Gondogoro La. We also had a talk from the head of the trekking company who had summited K2.

Most of the group went into town but I stayed to charge my batteries for the video. It was pleasant just to relax in the grounds, admire the view and have a pipe.

17th August 2001:

K2 Hotel

We continued up the river till we came to the first of four wash aways for the day. Here we had to leave our three jeeps and walk across. As the jeeps could not follow we had to get another lift the other side and there was only one jeep available. It was standing room only for us in the back which was uncovered. There were 12 trekkers plus some of the staff. It was a squashed but exciting ride.

Soon the valley narrowed and the track took us high above the swirling Braldu River. Some of the “s? bends were so sharp the driver had to do a 3 point turn to get us round. The reversing sections of these turns had us rolling backwards towards the precipice with the drivers mate running behind us with a large rock which he rammed under the rear wheels for a brake. The brakes only seemed to slow us down. On one steep section we stalled and as we rolled backwards towards the river the driver clutch started the engine. If it hadn't started I hate to think where we would have ended up. The tyres were smooth but we got away with only one puncture.

We stopped in an apricot grove for lunch. It was good to stretch our legs and have a feed but we were soon all standing in the back of that jeep again for the last leg to Tongol.

We got there about 1700. The camp was already up and Joe's luggage had arrived. He had been separated from it before Lahore. It was a pleasant spot with grass and trees. It is always nice to get to the start of a trek knowing all the harrowing stuff is over and all that lay ahead was to walk,take photos eat and sleep.

Mosque under Construction

Jeep Full

3 point turn

18th August 2001:

It was a long mornings walk to Korophon. First we passed through the only village we were to see, Askole. We had been walking about an hour along the dry dusty Braldu valley so it was good to see the green of Askole. It was a fairly large village and was teeming with children walking beside the irrigation canals. We were invited to the “King? of Askole's house to eat hard boiled eggs, and have a cup of tea. Apparently the “King? controls the coming and goings in the valley via the "toll bridge" and we were well advised to be polite to him. All the eggs were eaten.

We continued up the valley in the heat. It was fairly level walking and very pleasant. Most of us were walking in running shoes. After a few hours the snout of the Biafo Glacier came in sight. It was covered in rubble but was easy to cross and by 1400 we were at our camp site having lunch.

It was a good campsite but there was a cold wind blowing down the glacier from Snow Lake, explored by Erik Shipton many years ago. It was here I discovered that washing was optional. I asked the leader, Pip for washing water, she asked me what I wanted to wash for. The truth was that I didn't but I just thought it was the done thing. I decided to remain dirty, at least for a while. Washing on a trek is always a chore and usually uncomfortable in a blasting icy wind so this was a bonus for this trip.

Tongol Camp

Toll Bridge

19th August 2001:

We were up at 0530 for the walk to Bradumal. Once the sun was up it got really hot but the walking was quite easy.

I had been feeling a bit uneasy about the crossing of the Dumordo River since reading Sorrel Wilby's account of the crossing but it turned out to be a non event. There was a good low level track that had been blasted out of the rock so we did not have to scale the cliff from the high level track. We had a good view of this cliff and it looked horrendous. The path went upstream for about 1Km to a good bridge and we were soon across and heading back to the Braldu.

The rest of the walk was uneventful except for a short section where we had to scale a small cliff above the river. The porters helped us up but once up there was a bit of a traverse that looked a bit dodgy to me. However there was no time to think about it as a porter grabbed my hand and scuttled across with me in tow running across the near vertical cliff face. It was with some relief that I found myself on the flat again.

We got to camp about 1500. It was a pleasant spot by the river, deep in the gorge with craggy wind eroded towers all around.

Dumordo Bridge

Cliff Passage

20th August 2001:

It was another hot day but we only had to walk to Piaju near the snout of the Baltoro Glacier, and that was only about three and a half hours walk away.

At one point we had to cross a glacial stream that was running high with melt water. It is always a slow business with a large group but there was no hurry and we sat and admired the view and I managed to get some good video of the crossing. However, it did my feet no good and a blister that had been happily expanding between my toes burst.

We were in camp at about 1030 so it was like having a rest day. I patched up my feet, did some washing and relaxed and took in the views over the snout of the glacier.

That evening we had the end of trek party. I don't really know why we had it in the early stages of the trek but it was enjoyable even without any alcohol. I took extensive video of the whole thing with Pip carrying the lantern around to provide light. Sadly ,and to my lasting shame, I had the camera set in “still? mode so I ended up with just one still and no video. I went to bed happy as I was not aware of this till we got back to the hotel in Islamabad and had a look at the tapes.

Glacial Stream Crossing

Baltoro Glacier in distance.

Today was a rest day which as usual means a strenuous climb and today we went up to Piaju Peak base camp. It was a very steep climb over loose scree and it was good for acclimatization. There were good views from the high point along the Baltoro Glacier which just looked like a dark steam of rubble. The descent was fast and fun. Long strides in the loose sandy scree took us cascading down with long slides like skiing. We were back at camp for lunch.

It was a pleasant afternoon in the sun, relaxing and reading. There was also a game of cricket but I just watched being no match for the Pakistanis. My tent mate, Nigel, was feeling a bit knackered after the days climb. I did not realize at the time how bad he was feeling. These rest days really take it out of you.